After the end of the First World War in 1918, the forefathers of the Bakgatla tribe—who had served in the war under the British forces—returned to their homeland in what was previously know as Bophuthatswana, now part of South Africa. During their service abroad, many had encountered Scottish regiments, known for their distinctive kilts and tartan patterns. Inspired by the strength, symbolism, and ceremonial dignity of the Scottish military dress, these returning soldiers brought back kilts as part of their personal war memories and identity.
Rather than remaining a foreign novelty, the kilt was gradually embraced and reinterpreted through a uniquely African lens. Over time, it was woven into the cultural fabric of the Bakgatla, who adopted the garment as the official traditional dress for ceremonial gatherings, especially during tribal troop performances and community celebrations. The colours and patterns of the kilts were not merely decorative—they were carefully chosen to reflect tribal identity, unity, and ancestral pride.
Today, the sight of a Bakgatla troop in full traditional dress—marching in kilts with rhythm and purpose—is both a visual statement of cultural adaptation and a living memory of a time when their forebears stood on foreign battlefields, yet never lost their connection to home. It is a striking example of how global history and indigenous heritage can merge to create new traditions, rich in meaning and symbolic power.
One of Kuumba Owl’s master artisans, Martha Lekalakala, is a specialist in crafting traditional Bakgatla kilts.
Each kilt is meticulously handmade using between six and eight meters of tartan fabric. Every pleat is folded by hand with precision and care—an intricate process that demands both time and patience. Martha’s work is a beautiful expression of heritage, skill, and dedication, keeping a unique cultural tradition alive with every stitch.
Due to high demand for Martha’s handcrafted Troop dresses, please allow a lead time of 6 to 8 weeks.
Each garment is made to order with great care and detail. We recommend placing your order well in advance to avoid disappointment.
Ladies’ Troop dresses start at R1200, and Men’s Troop dresses start at R1500.
